Flea and Tick Prevention
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Flea Prevention and Control
Understanding the flea
Fleas can cause a host of problems for your dog. Problems can range from flea allergy dermatitis to dangerous amounts of blood loss if infested in large enough numbers. Preventing fleas from infesting your pet is much easier and less expensive than treating an existing flea problem and an effective flea prevention program is essential to your dog’s health.
When environmental conditions are favorable, the flea has a great reproductive potential. Fleas thrive at low altitudes in temperature ranges of 65-80 degrees (F). under these conditions the flea life cycle can be completed beginning with the hatching of an egg through the laying of the next generation of eggs. This process can take place in as little as 16 days. Fleas breed continuously during the year under the right temperatures. Adult fleas are long-lived insects and can survive several months without a blood meal.
One female flea may lay eggs everyday of her life. A flea’s lifespan may be months to over a year which may result in reproducing hundreds of fleas. Flea eggs will hatch anywhere from 2-21 days depending on the temperature and humidity of the environment. Most species of fleas only spend a small amount of time on their host, but they must have a blood meal before they can lay eggs. When the eggs hatch they are larvae that live on organic debris, flakes of skin and even flea feces. They will molt a couple of times while they grow and then they make a sticky cocoon that looks like a speck of dust. They stay in this cocoon for anywhere from 18 days to 20 months until conditions are favorable. Warm temperatures, humidity, and vibrations that suggest a body is near and available for a blood meal will signal the adult flea to come out of its cocoon.
While they are going through the larvae stage and the cocoon stage they are likely to be in warm, dark, moist regions, under and in dog bedding, furniture, and leafy debris in the yard. The cocoons are small and sticky, adhering to carpet fibers, and falling into the cracks of wood floors.
They prefer to hop off after a meal and hide in warm dark places such as under furniture cushions or in carpet in a dark corner. They will hide in cracks of tile or wood floors and places like under the refrigerator. The female lays her eggs in these places and they will hatch into very small worm-like larvae. Larvae feed on organic debris such as crumbs or flakes of skin, hair, or even feces from adult fleas. The larvae molt and form a pupa, that then emerge as young and hungry adults in about three weeks.
Unfortunately, flea eggs are resistant and are not affected by insecticides. They can also become dormant in unfavorable conditions. When conditions become favorable the eggs can hatch and complete the life cycle.
Since most fleas spend so little time on your pet, it can h=be hard to discern by inspecting your pet the extent of the infestation or the degree of your pet’s discomfort. However, fleas do leave behind evidence of their presence in the form of “flea dirt”. This may be seen on your pet even if you do not see fleas. Comb or brush your pet. Look for tiny dark dots or comma-shaped pieces of debris. This is the excrement of the flea and the dark material is actually the digested blood from the flea’s meal. To determine if the small specs are actually from the flea, place the specs on a moistened paper towel. If the spec begins to dissolve and forms red stain, then it is flea dirt.
When the flea bites an animal for a blood meal some of their saliva gets under the skin producing a wound. The proteins in the flea saliva can cause an allergic reaction – redness, irritation, swelling. In some instances, these can become severe and develop into a skin infection requiring treatment by your vet.
Fleas also are a carrier for an intestinal parasite called tapeworms. These are recognized as small, flat white segments on your dog’s rectum or on a fresh stool. Your dog may need a de-wormer if a flea infestation has occurred or if you see these worms. Ask your vet about proper treatment.
Flea Control and Treatment
The best way to control flea infestations is prevention. The following are helpful suggestions; ultimately you should check with your vet to determine what is the best method for your dog.
In most cases Monthly Topical Preventives are the best and safest prevention for your dog. Many include prevention for both fleas and ticks and offer long-lasting protection. Some products are also useful for dogs that swim. Some topical preventatives provide protection against mosquitoes.
Monthly topical preventatives are often preferred due to ease of use, high margin of safety, and protection for the entire flea life cycle (up to 30 days). Flea protection is carried out with a simple liquid application that is applied to your dog’s skin in a bead along his back. The liquid then takes around 12-24 hours to collect in the oils and hair follicles of the dog’s skin allowing for protection of your dog for about a month. In some cases, there may be some skin irritation or some nausea if the animal happens to ingest the topical product. Consult with your vet regarding safe and proper application.
Oral Monthly Preventives are designed to break the flea life cycle by keeping flea eggs and larvae from developing. These products contain an insect development inhibitor (IDI) that keeps flea eggs and larvae from developing. Oral Monthly Preventives do not kill adult fleas, so if your dog already has fleas you must use something to kill the adults. There are also other pills available that many vets carry for assistance with infestations. These pills will safely kill any fleas on your dog within a few hours but there is no residual protection for repeat infestations. Many vets will treat with this pill when an infestation Is noted, then will treat with the monthly topical medication so that your animal is protected while the topical residual prevention begins to take effect.
Dips and rinses are applied to the entire dog and generally have some residual activity. They should be applied in a well-ventilated area according to the manufacturer’s directions. It is helpful to put cotton balls in the pet’s ears and ophthalmic ointment in the pet’s eyes. Even with these precautions, be very careful not to get any of the product in the pet’s ears and eyes. Dips can dry the dogs coat and skin. They will be less effective on animals in areas of high infestations or on animals that are avid swimmers. These products are insecticides that can be harmful to pets and children if ingested or used improperly. Consult with the manufacturer’s directions or your vet regarding safe and proper application.
Flea and tick shampoo help to primarily rid the pet of the fleas and ticks it already has on it and some have residual activity. Shampoos may help a little but are not recommended for flea control. To properly use a flea and tick shampoo you must be sure to work the shampoo in over the entire body and then leave it on at least 10 minutes before you rinse it off. Consult with the manufacturer’s directions or your vet regarding safe and proper application.
Numerous Sprays are also available for flea and tick treatment. Sprays can come as aerosols or pump bottles. Again, check with a professional to determine the method for your dog and circumstances.
Flea collars and Powders in general are ineffective in most environments. Powders must be applied several times a week and worked well into the coat. Some dips and powders cannot be used on young puppies. Flea collars tend to be very limited at best in preventing fleas and ticks.
Yet again, consult with your vet if your dog has fleas before you treat it yourself. There are several important factors when considering each of the above methods and in all cases your vet should be consulted.
Environmental Control
The life cycle for the flea is approximately 2-3 weeks in a typical warm environment. There is not a good product available to kill every stage of the life cycle of the flea. Upon discovery of fleas in your home or on your dog, environmental control will also be key to successful removal and future prevention. A professional extermination service may be the best treatment for a large home and yard. There are also do-it-yourself sprays available on the market for the home and yard.
Vacuuming thoroughly at the time you treat your pets and home is helpful. When vacuuming, immediately dispose of the vacuum bag in a sealed plastic container and put it in the outside trash to get rid of flea eggs. If the bag is left in the vacuum, then the eggs may hatch and fleas will get out of the machine every time it is in use. If you have a bag less system you will need to thoroughly clean it after use.
Foggers may help to a limited degree. They are designed to cover a specific number of square feet but will not penetrate under low furniture or into thick carpet. If your homes floor plan is complex it will not be as effective. Foggers should be used every two weeks and vacuuming should precede treatment. Follow directions carefully, especially if you have fish, birds, or other pets in the household.
It is best to treat the house, the yard, and all of your pets in the same day. Consult your vet before using any of these chemicals in your house and yard, and especially on your pets.
Understanding the flea
Fleas can cause a host of problems for your dog. Problems can range from flea allergy dermatitis to dangerous amounts of blood loss if infested in large enough numbers. Preventing fleas from infesting your pet is much easier and less expensive than treating an existing flea problem and an effective flea prevention program is essential to your dog’s health.
When environmental conditions are favorable, the flea has a great reproductive potential. Fleas thrive at low altitudes in temperature ranges of 65-80 degrees (F). under these conditions the flea life cycle can be completed beginning with the hatching of an egg through the laying of the next generation of eggs. This process can take place in as little as 16 days. Fleas breed continuously during the year under the right temperatures. Adult fleas are long-lived insects and can survive several months without a blood meal.
One female flea may lay eggs everyday of her life. A flea’s lifespan may be months to over a year which may result in reproducing hundreds of fleas. Flea eggs will hatch anywhere from 2-21 days depending on the temperature and humidity of the environment. Most species of fleas only spend a small amount of time on their host, but they must have a blood meal before they can lay eggs. When the eggs hatch they are larvae that live on organic debris, flakes of skin and even flea feces. They will molt a couple of times while they grow and then they make a sticky cocoon that looks like a speck of dust. They stay in this cocoon for anywhere from 18 days to 20 months until conditions are favorable. Warm temperatures, humidity, and vibrations that suggest a body is near and available for a blood meal will signal the adult flea to come out of its cocoon.
While they are going through the larvae stage and the cocoon stage they are likely to be in warm, dark, moist regions, under and in dog bedding, furniture, and leafy debris in the yard. The cocoons are small and sticky, adhering to carpet fibers, and falling into the cracks of wood floors.
They prefer to hop off after a meal and hide in warm dark places such as under furniture cushions or in carpet in a dark corner. They will hide in cracks of tile or wood floors and places like under the refrigerator. The female lays her eggs in these places and they will hatch into very small worm-like larvae. Larvae feed on organic debris such as crumbs or flakes of skin, hair, or even feces from adult fleas. The larvae molt and form a pupa, that then emerge as young and hungry adults in about three weeks.
Unfortunately, flea eggs are resistant and are not affected by insecticides. They can also become dormant in unfavorable conditions. When conditions become favorable the eggs can hatch and complete the life cycle.
Since most fleas spend so little time on your pet, it can h=be hard to discern by inspecting your pet the extent of the infestation or the degree of your pet’s discomfort. However, fleas do leave behind evidence of their presence in the form of “flea dirt”. This may be seen on your pet even if you do not see fleas. Comb or brush your pet. Look for tiny dark dots or comma-shaped pieces of debris. This is the excrement of the flea and the dark material is actually the digested blood from the flea’s meal. To determine if the small specs are actually from the flea, place the specs on a moistened paper towel. If the spec begins to dissolve and forms red stain, then it is flea dirt.
When the flea bites an animal for a blood meal some of their saliva gets under the skin producing a wound. The proteins in the flea saliva can cause an allergic reaction – redness, irritation, swelling. In some instances, these can become severe and develop into a skin infection requiring treatment by your vet.
Fleas also are a carrier for an intestinal parasite called tapeworms. These are recognized as small, flat white segments on your dog’s rectum or on a fresh stool. Your dog may need a de-wormer if a flea infestation has occurred or if you see these worms. Ask your vet about proper treatment.
Flea Control and Treatment
The best way to control flea infestations is prevention. The following are helpful suggestions; ultimately you should check with your vet to determine what is the best method for your dog.
In most cases Monthly Topical Preventives are the best and safest prevention for your dog. Many include prevention for both fleas and ticks and offer long-lasting protection. Some products are also useful for dogs that swim. Some topical preventatives provide protection against mosquitoes.
Monthly topical preventatives are often preferred due to ease of use, high margin of safety, and protection for the entire flea life cycle (up to 30 days). Flea protection is carried out with a simple liquid application that is applied to your dog’s skin in a bead along his back. The liquid then takes around 12-24 hours to collect in the oils and hair follicles of the dog’s skin allowing for protection of your dog for about a month. In some cases, there may be some skin irritation or some nausea if the animal happens to ingest the topical product. Consult with your vet regarding safe and proper application.
Oral Monthly Preventives are designed to break the flea life cycle by keeping flea eggs and larvae from developing. These products contain an insect development inhibitor (IDI) that keeps flea eggs and larvae from developing. Oral Monthly Preventives do not kill adult fleas, so if your dog already has fleas you must use something to kill the adults. There are also other pills available that many vets carry for assistance with infestations. These pills will safely kill any fleas on your dog within a few hours but there is no residual protection for repeat infestations. Many vets will treat with this pill when an infestation Is noted, then will treat with the monthly topical medication so that your animal is protected while the topical residual prevention begins to take effect.
Dips and rinses are applied to the entire dog and generally have some residual activity. They should be applied in a well-ventilated area according to the manufacturer’s directions. It is helpful to put cotton balls in the pet’s ears and ophthalmic ointment in the pet’s eyes. Even with these precautions, be very careful not to get any of the product in the pet’s ears and eyes. Dips can dry the dogs coat and skin. They will be less effective on animals in areas of high infestations or on animals that are avid swimmers. These products are insecticides that can be harmful to pets and children if ingested or used improperly. Consult with the manufacturer’s directions or your vet regarding safe and proper application.
Flea and tick shampoo help to primarily rid the pet of the fleas and ticks it already has on it and some have residual activity. Shampoos may help a little but are not recommended for flea control. To properly use a flea and tick shampoo you must be sure to work the shampoo in over the entire body and then leave it on at least 10 minutes before you rinse it off. Consult with the manufacturer’s directions or your vet regarding safe and proper application.
Numerous Sprays are also available for flea and tick treatment. Sprays can come as aerosols or pump bottles. Again, check with a professional to determine the method for your dog and circumstances.
Flea collars and Powders in general are ineffective in most environments. Powders must be applied several times a week and worked well into the coat. Some dips and powders cannot be used on young puppies. Flea collars tend to be very limited at best in preventing fleas and ticks.
Yet again, consult with your vet if your dog has fleas before you treat it yourself. There are several important factors when considering each of the above methods and in all cases your vet should be consulted.
Environmental Control
The life cycle for the flea is approximately 2-3 weeks in a typical warm environment. There is not a good product available to kill every stage of the life cycle of the flea. Upon discovery of fleas in your home or on your dog, environmental control will also be key to successful removal and future prevention. A professional extermination service may be the best treatment for a large home and yard. There are also do-it-yourself sprays available on the market for the home and yard.
Vacuuming thoroughly at the time you treat your pets and home is helpful. When vacuuming, immediately dispose of the vacuum bag in a sealed plastic container and put it in the outside trash to get rid of flea eggs. If the bag is left in the vacuum, then the eggs may hatch and fleas will get out of the machine every time it is in use. If you have a bag less system you will need to thoroughly clean it after use.
Foggers may help to a limited degree. They are designed to cover a specific number of square feet but will not penetrate under low furniture or into thick carpet. If your homes floor plan is complex it will not be as effective. Foggers should be used every two weeks and vacuuming should precede treatment. Follow directions carefully, especially if you have fish, birds, or other pets in the household.
It is best to treat the house, the yard, and all of your pets in the same day. Consult your vet before using any of these chemicals in your house and yard, and especially on your pets.
